Tackling “The Final Problem,” Or, How Not to Visit Meiringen
“For a charming week, […] we made our way over the Gemmi Pass, still deep in snow, and so, by way of Interlaken, to Meiringen. It was a lovely trip, the dainty green of the spring below, the virgin white of the winter above; but it was clear to me that never for one instant did Holmes forget the shadow which lay across him…”
– Dr. John Watson, “The Final Problem”
You’re a Sherlockian. You’ve read the canon a few (dozen) times. You’ve got opinions on the Rathbone vs. Brett question and on Elementary vs. Sherlock. You’ve been to 221B Baker Street in London…or at least fantasized about it. There’s only one rung left on the ladder to ultimate fandom: A visit to Meiringen, Switzerland to see the Reichenbach Falls. It’s the Final Problem, if you will.
But for those who need more incentive before booking a trip to Switzerland than the dream of paying respects at Sherlock Holmes’ (faked) resting place, fear not! Meiringen is tucked away within one of Switzerland’s most breathtaking Alpine regions, the Bernese Oberland, which puts it on the doorstep of beloved destinations like Interlaken, the Jungfrau, and the Aare Gorge. So whether you’re looking for a charming weekend getaway or a stop on a longer tour, Meiringen is well worth a visit for Sherlockians and civilians alike.
Due to an impressive variety of circumstances, my own trip in the spring of 2014 didn’t go exactly as planned. But, thanks to the richness of the region I’d stumbled into, I discovered a plethora of other delights along the way. Here are a few tips for your own adventure, based on a few fiascos from mine.
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: Pick a great time to visit Meiringen!
WHAT I DID: Picked a bad time to visit Meiringen.
The view of Meiringen from my room at Das Hotel Sherlock Holmes.
Meiringen owes much of its tourism to the Falls, and to sports aficionados who use it as a base for hiking, mountain biking, and skiing. Arthur Conan Doyle stayed there on his trek through the Alps (that eventually inspired “The Final Problem”), and the town has never forgotten it. His name, along with the great detective’s, is scattered throughout Meiringen for fans to find.
In the winter months, when the Falls dry up, many places shorten their hours or close completely. For best results, plan your trip between May and October. It’ll be busier, but for good reason. (The simplest way to arrive is by train from Zurich; you’ll only need to change once, in Luzern, and the whole ride lasts about two and a half hours.)
The River Aare, flowing right next to Meiringen.
I visited Meiringen in mid-April, and it wasn’t until after I arrived that the concierge at Das Hotel Sherlock Holmes delivered the bad news: The snow had barely begun melting from the mountains, so the thunderous, foaming Reichenbach Falls – famed for being some of the highest in the Alps – were, at this point in the year, little more than a trickle. Oops.
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: Ride the funicular up to see the Reichenbach Falls!
WHAT I DID: Walked – sometimes crawled – up a mountain to see the Falls.
The quiet falls…
Bad news became worse when I realized the funicular – the Reichenbachfall-Bahn, which brings visitors close to the Falls in a few minutes – was not yet open for the summer. Unwilling to admit defeat, I followed the scant footpath signs I could find, cut through woods and lawns, and clambered on rocky paths for an hour until I reached the famous ledge and, sure enough, found the mighty Falls to be merely damp.
But even without the drama of a full-swing waterfall, it was thrilling to be nestled in folds of slate-gray rock with no crowds behind me. I snapped pictures of the Sherlock Holmes Plaque (dedicated by the Reichenbach Irregulars of Switzerland on the centennial of the detective’s “death”). I read a few lines of “The Final Problem” aloud. Worth the trouble? Absolutely.
The plaque at the famous ledge overlooking the Falls.
If you visit during the summer, take the funicular (CHF 12.00 for adults and 8.00 for kids)! It brings visitors to a viewing platform at the lower part of the Falls, and from there you can make a short hike up to the ledge immortalized by Doyle in 1893, from which our beloved consulting detective vanquished Professor Moriarty.
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: Visit the Sherlock Holmes Museum!
WHAT I DID: Didn’t visit the Sherlock Holmes Museum.
The Sherlock Holmes Museum of Meiringen is housed in a deconsecrated church. Though small, it features a collection of Holmes memorabilia, Victorian paraphernalia, and a detailed replica of the living room at 221B Baker Street, including every detail mentioned in the canon. Audio guides in several languages provide additional information on the life of Doyle and, of course, his most famous creation.
Or so I’ve read. Because the Museum was still in its winter hours cycle (13:30-17:00 Wednesdays and Sundays) when I breezed into Meiringen, and my visit – a Thursday to Saturday trip – fell squarely between the two open days.
John Doubleday’s statue of the detective near the Museum
I had to be satisfied with taking a few pictures of the bronze statue of a seated, pipe-smoking, deerstalker-capped Holmes in the adjacent square. Sculpted by John Doubleday in 1988, the statue contains clues from each of the sixty Holmes stories. Should you be lucky/savvy enough to visit between May and October, stop by the Museum Tuesday through Sunday from 13:30-18:00. Combined tickets for the Reichenbach funicular and the Museum are CHF 13.00 for adults and CHF 8.00 for children.
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: Spend a sunny day in Interlaken!
WHAT I DID: Spent a rainy day in Interlaken.
A splash of color on a dreary day in Interlaken
It was a spectacular spring day when I passed through Interlaken on my way to Meiringen. Cradled by snowcapped Alpine peaks and flanked by its two opalescent lakes, the town beamed like a mix of Neverland and Candyland. Rainbow paragliders floated dreamily from azure skies.
It was a dismal spring day when I returned the following afternoon. Cold rain and pewter skies made the lake-locked town considerably less inviting. Most of the tourists huddled in shopping arcades.
But in good weather, Interlaken is an adventurer’s paradise. Mountaineers use it as a base to reach famous Alps like the Jungfrau, Mönch, and Eiger. Hoards of visitors – including a large backpacking population – come for skydiving, canyoning, hang gliding, paragliding, skiing, and the beautiful views.
The train between Interlaken and Meiringen runs regularly and offers a dazzling 30-minute ride along Lake Brienz.
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO: Visit the Aareschlucht!
WHAT I DID: Visited the Aareschlucht. (Something went right!)
The winding Aare Gorge.
The River Aare is a gleaming green ribbon that cuts a winding gorge – the Aareschlucht – just outside Meiringen as it flows west toward Interlaken. It is close enough to walk (but a train can bring you to the gorge’s entrance).
Visitors follow a labyrinthine path along the river and see the masterpiece wrought by millennia of erosion. I felt like a kid on a playground as I ducked through the caves, tunnels, and bridges, and the informative English signs helped me decipher the geologic wonders around me. It was fun and fascinating even in cloudy weather!
Admission is CHF 9.00 for adults, CHF 6.00 for children under 16, and free under 6. You can purchase a combined ticket with the Reichenbachfall-Bahn for CHF 16.00 (CHF 11.00 for children). Two restaurants have sprung up in the gorge since my visit in 2014; they are open during the day, when the gorge is, and also on weekend evenings in July and August.
Jennifer Vosters is a writer, theatremaker, and traveler from Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Her writing has appeared in Slippery Elm and Bridge literary journals, Indiana’s Best Emerging Poets, National Catholic Reporter, and Grab the Lapels. She received her BA in English from Saint Mary’s College and loves traveling in the footsteps of her favorite writers.
Thank you for your story. My experience there (in Meiringen) was similar to yours, but the museum was open (Funicular was still closed). I walked from the village through pastures following a road, from time to time, and stopped midway on the journey, at a small roadside B&B half way up the mountain, for a bite to eat. A short walk after lunch, through nearby wood lead the bottom of the fall. A path leading to the top, through a wooded area alongside the fall was the final part of the journey to the top of the falls, which were indeed flowing at that time. I still remember listening to the cowbells most of the journey and the roar of the falls from the bottom to the top. Later, upon returning to town I traveled on to Interlaken and enjoyed the views from there as well. All-in-all a very memorable day.
Best regards,
Steve